Terminology
Like many sports, climbing has developed a language of its own that can seem rather incomprehensible to the uninitiated.
This basic glossary should clarify and give some understanding of the common climbing terms often used by the climbing community.
Glossary of Climbing Terms
Arête: A thin, narrow ridge running vertically up the wall.
Bail: To retreat from a climb.
Barn-door: If a climber has only two points of contact using either the right or left side of the body, the other half may swing uncontrollably out from the wall like a door on a hinge.
Beta: Advice and information on how to successfully complete a particular climbing route, boulder problem, or crux sequence.
Campusing: climbing without using any feet. Derived from the 'Campus board', a wooden training board used to increase finger strength.
Crimp: A very small hold which is only just big enough to be grasped with the tip of the fingers.
Crushed: An ascent where prior practise, advanced strength or technical ability allows the climber to ascend with ease.
Crux: The most difficult section of a climb.
Cut-loose: Where a climber's feet swing away from the wall on overhanging terrain, leaving the climber hanging only by their hands.
Deadpoint: A dynamic and efficient climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion.
Dyno: A dynamic jump to grab a hold that would otherwise be out of reach, causing both feet to leave the wall.
Edging: Using the edge of the climbing shoe on small footholds to attain adhesion to the wall.
Flapper: A climbing injury consisting of a piece of loose (flapping) skin. Can be 'repaired' with sticky tape or super glue!
Gaston: A climbing grip using one hand with the thumb down and elbow out. This position maintains contact against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow.
Gripped: Scared!
High Ball: A high boulder problem where falling from or near the top is likely to result in injury.
Jug: A large climbing hold that is very easy to grip.
Lock-off: the ability to use tendon strength to support body weight on a hand hold.
Mantle: A move used to surmount a ledge or feature in the absence of any useful holds directly above. It involves pushing down on the ledge or feature instead of pulling down.
Pinch: A climbing feature that must be pinched on opposing sides to hold on.
Pumped: To have such an accumulation of lactic acid in the forearm due to overworked muscles that holding on becomes very difficult or impossible!
Side pull: A hold that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull towards the body.
Sit start: Starting a bouldering problem from a sitting position on the floor in order to fit extra moves into the climb.
Sloper: A sloping hold with very little positive surface.
Climbing Techniques
Heel Hook: an advanced climbing technique that uses the back of the heel to hook onto and apply pressure against a hold. This technique allows the climber to remain in balance and can often be used to reach holds that would otherwise remain too far away. Heel hooks are particularly useful on overhanging terrain or when ascending an arête.
Toe Hook: an advanced climbing technique that uses the top side of the toes to hook onto and apply pressure against a hold. Toe hooks are particularly useful for conserving energy on steep, overhanging terrain where they prevent the climber from swinging wildly away from the wall.
Drop Knee: this subtle climbing technique is a superb method of reaching a far away hold on a wall. The drop knee allows the climber to extend their reach by compressing the body into the wall and bending one knee inwards. The body and shoulders turn towards the hold, giving a longer reach and allowing the climber to remain in balance.
Layback: a very useful technique for climbing features such as arêtes or cracks whereby the hands and feet are used in opposition. The hands are used to pull up the wall and the feet are used to push against the wall.
