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Beacon's 20th Anniversary Event: 18.10.2014... : (11/09/2014)

 

Originally opened on 17th October 1994, Beacon has now been offering a quality indoor climbing experience and a welcome respite from the fickleness of the Welsh weather for 20 years. To quote Tim Emmett: "Wow. 20 years old, that's wild! Time Flies!"

 

Our success over the years is, in the main, due to the enthusiasm and deep involvement of the directors, staff, instructors and of course you: one of the many hundreds of thousands of climbers who have passed through our door in the last 20 years. Thank you.

 

Please join us to celebrate on Saturday 18th October 2014.

 

 

#CLIMB

Free CrazyClimb & climbing sessions for newcomers.
Never tried indoor climbing before? Now's your chance to have a go for free! We'll be running short taster sessions throughout the day suitable for all ages from 5+.

 

Upside Down Wales: routing roof bouldering with Pete Robins & George Smith.
Enjoy some unconventional upside down challenges on our routing roof helped along by a bit of banter and (possibly) helpful advice from George Smith, master of the esoteric upside down world and local strong man Pete 'Golden Heels' Robins. DMM prizes available!

 

Crazy Bouldering: bouldering challenges with Wiz Fineron & Charlie Woodburn.
Join two of North Wales' most talented younger climbers in a quest to complete our entertaining mix of wacky bouldering problems - expect an entertaining mix of the sedate, tenuous, to the utterly demonic! DMM prizes available!

 

Women's Masterclasses: 1 hour sessions with Lucy Creamer.
You don't have to be a world class athlete to benefit from expert tuition. Improve your climbing by signing up for a session with one of the UK's most accomplished female climbers. Further details TBC. Over 18s only.

 

Ice Climbing & Dry Tooling: with Nick Bullock & the latest DMM winter gear.
Learn the basic techniques needed to succeed in this high adrenaline sport on our artificial ice climbing and dry tooling routes with expert advice from the king of cool Nick Bullock. You'll also be able to check out and try DMM's latest tools.

 

 

#WATCH

DMM Exhibition Stand: check out the latest equipment from Llanberis based manufacturer DMM.
Showcasing the latest range of software and hardware including yet to be released products, this is your chance to gleen some indepth product knowledge and technical advice from the people that make the best climbing equipment around.

 

British Tooling Series Round 3: Climbing walls + Axes = crazy competitions!
Watch the sport's top climbers compete in Round 3 of the 2014 British Tooling Series: Spread the length and breadth of Great Britain, from the highlands of Scotland, down to the hustle and bustle of London, the series features 5 competitions to get climbers warmed up for the 1st British Tooling Open.

 

Helmcken Falls Eevening Lecture: with Tim Emmett & Will Gadd from 7:30pm.
In 2010 Tim Emmett and Will Gadd received a Golden Piton award for climbing the spray ice wall on the 463-foot Helmcken Falls in British Colombia, Canada. They called the resulting pitch Spray On and rated it WI10 - three grades harder than any other pure ice climb.

 

 

#SOCIAL
Food served all day in our cafe with special Indian dishes by in-house chef Raji.
After hours bar open until late.

 

 

#PRICES
Advance booking is not required. All options can be purchased on the door.

 

#1. FREE - CrazyClimb & climbing taster sessions.
#2. £6.50 entry for all climbers (10 entry or unlimited passes can be used).
#3. £4.00 for Indian meal.
#4. £8.00 evening lecture.
#5. £10.00 Indian meal & evening lecture.





Reel Rock 9 UK Film premier in Caernarfon 09.10.2014... : (21/08/2014)

The Reel Rock Film Tour is one of the world's fastest growing short film festivals and is ready to once again thrill audiences across the UK this autumn with events in more than 12 locations across the UK including the UK premiere at Galeri Caernarfon on Thursday 9th October.

 

 

Reel Rock 9 features the highly anticipated feature-length film Valley Uprising from Emmy award-winning adventure filmmakers. The documentary examines 60 years of climbing history, epic rivalry, adventure and rebellion in California's legendary Yosemite National Park. Experience the climbing revolution and adventures on the big screen with the bold men and women who have redefined the limits of possibility in the vertical realm.

 

 

 

 

Vividly brought to life through digitally animated-archival photography, spectacular movie footage from today and the past as well as interviews with climbing legends, the story of Yosemite as recorded in the history books, captured on film and spoken by the campfire can be divided into three discrete but interlocking generations - The Golden Age, The Stone Masters and The Stone Monkeys.

 

The Golden Age

It was in the early days, during the 50s and 60s, that (now) legendary climbers dreamt up the incomprehensible notion of ascending Yosemite's massive, cloud-scraping vertical walls. Rag-tag beatniks and freethinkers, this generation of climbers escaped the conformism of post-war America for the freedom of Yosemite, where they forged a revolution in climbing, and a way of life, pushing the vertical realm to incomprehensible new limits and generated many incredible classic climbs.

 

The Stone Masters

Inspired by their predecessors but determined to usurp their legacy, the 70's climbers were audacious in personality and vision. They applied their talent to "free-climbing", ascending the mega routes without the use of artificial aids, and only with their hands and feet which made for some of the most impressive and athletic feats in human record. During this time a raucous new era emerged, marked by partying and battles with park authorities. And then there was the time a drug-smuggling plane crashed in the valley, creating a contraband gold rush for the usually impoverished local climbers...

 

The Stone Monkeys

With the dawn of the new century came the emergence of the "Stone Monkeys", a young and modern band of brothers bringing their feats of adventure to a level once thought impossible. Exactly 50 years after the first ascent of Half Dome that took several days, Alex Honnold, a shy, goofy twenty-something living out of his van, made the ascent alone, with no rope, in under three hours, arguably completing the greatest rock climbing ascent in the history of the sport. The Yosemite climbing scene has now become a truly astonishing thing to behold: walking high lines across cliff-tops, and BASE jumping off the massive formations.

 

 

Venue: Galeri Caernarfon
Address: Doc Victoria, Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 1SQ
Date: Thursday 9th October
Show time: 19:30
Regular Tickets: £12 (booking fee £0.82)
Concession Tickets: £10 (booking fee £0.82)

 

Tickets can be purchased online at www.reelrock.co.uk

 

The Reel Rock Film Tour offers audiences so much more than just a film night (albeit it with the best new adventure films around!). The screenings are inspiring events where outdoors lovers and climbers alike come together to celebrate adventure and leave with new enthusiasm and inspiration for their next adventure. Audiences also have a chance to win some fantastic prizes provided by the Tour's sponsors - The North Face, Ellis Brigham,Clif Bar and Five Ten.





British Lead & Speed Climbing Championships 2014... : (08/09/2014)

Britain's premier lead climbing competition takes place at Awesome Walls, Sheffield on 4-5 October, alongside the British Speed Climbing Championships and new for this year - the IFSC Paraclimbing Cup.

 

 

Britain's best climbers will battle it out on the brand new super steep wall in Sheffield, all vying for the title of British Lead Climbing Champion. The fastest climbers in the land will be on the speed wall, fighting for the chance to become Britain's Speed Climbing Champion.

 

This event will also host the IFSC Paraclimbing Cup, where paraclimbers from all over the world will be coming to compete along side the climbers competing in the BLCC & BSCC. This will be a great opportunity to see some of the best paraclimbers in the world in action and cheer on the GB Paraclimbing Team whilst they are competing on home turf!

 

Awesome Walls Sheffield is the first climbing wall in England & Wales to be designated as a National Performance Centre - the BMC established the National Performance Centre (NPC) designation in 2012 to encourage the development of climbing walls capable of running national and international competitions.

 

The Junior and Vets categories of the British Lead Climbing Championships (BLCC) will take place on Saturday 4 October, with the Seniors on Sunday 5 October.

 

The British Speed Climbing Championships (BSCC) will run on Sunday 5 October with the Juniors competing in between Senior BLCC qualification and the final. The Seniors compete in the afternoon once the Senior BLCC finals have concluded. 2013 Results can be seen here

 

 

ENTER ONLINE HERE

Don't forget, you can compete in both lead and speed competitions if you wish.

 

 

Eligibility

This year we will again be using IFSC youth age categories with the addition of a Youth C category. So the ages for the youth categories are as follows:-

Youth C – must be born in 2001 or 2002

Youth B – must be born in 2000 or 1999

Youth A – must be born in 1998 or 1997

Juniors – must be born in 1996 or 1995

Senior entrants must be born between 1998 to 1970 (inclusive).

Veterans must be born in 1969 or earlier.

 

If you are born in 1996 or 1995 you have the choice of competing in either the Junior or Senior categories of the event or both if you want.

If you are born in 1998 or 1997 you have the choice of competing in either the Youth A or Senior categories of the event or both if you want.

The speed event will be run on a Junior (born 1997-2002) and Senior (born 1996 or earlier) set of categories, there will be no IFSC categories in this event.

 

 

Competition Timings
• 08:00 – Registration and warm up open.
• 09:00 – Registration closes.
• 10:00 – Climbing starts.
• Climbers arriving late may NOT be able to climb.

 

 

Entry Fee
• Senior competitors: £25.00
• Junior competitors: £20.00
• Both senior and junior: £30.00

 

By entering the lead event you are automatically eligible for entry to the speed event.

 

 

Prizes
• Senior Female & Male: 1st = £500 / 2nd = £250 / 3rd = £125
• Youth C, B, A Juniors and Vets will receive medals and trophies.
• Junior and Senior Speed Climbers will receive medals and trophies.

 

 

Competition Format

 

BLCC

The BLCC uses the same format as the European Youth Series; two routes are climbed by all competitors during the qualification rounds; these are climbed 'flash', which means that the routes are demonstrated by the routesetters and the competitors watch the demo and then watch each other climb. The climbing order is changed for the second route to maintain fairness. The climbers who qualify through to the final are put into an isolation zone and the final routes are climbed on-sight.

 

The basis for 'scoring' in the BLCC (and other leading competitions) is fairly simple. The higher up the route the more 'points' you gain. Each hold is assigned a score or number. If you hold this hold (e.g. hold 25) you get '25'. If you make progress towards the next hold (but don't touch it) you get '25+'. The actual ranking for the qualification round is a bit more complicated though, with square roots of the multiple of the ranking from each qualification coming into play.

 

Time does not have a bearing on the score but there is always a maximum time given by the chief judge in which the climbers must complete the route. If the climber is still climbing when this time period has elapsed (normally 6-8 minutes), they will be asked to stop climbing and their score will be taken from the highest point they reached at the end of the stated time period.

 

BSCC

Speed competitions shall be carried out on two parallel routes of identical length, profile, design and difficulty (Records Format). The routes are demonstrated by the national route setters, there will be no isolation for these routes. All routes shall be climbed with the competitor secured by top-rope, belayed from below.

 

Each competitor will climb both routes in qualification and only one route in the final rounds. The fastest time from either of the two routes will count towards final qualification.Both routes are climbed simultaneously and the competitors shall always climb in pairs. When a competitor has finished his/her attempt on one route, he/she is added at the end of the starting list of the other route.The starting order for the first qualifying route is random.

 

The final round shall take place as a series of knock-out heats, decided by the climbing time on the route in qualification. The final round may thus consist of the following stages: an eighth final, a quarter final and always a semifinal and a final – the number of stages in the final is determined by the number of competitors qualifying.

 

 

There is no qualification process to gain entry into the BLCC or the BSCC and the competition is open to anyone. You've got to be in it to win it, so enter online now. The Juniors categories (born 1995-2002) and Veterans (born 1969 or earlier) will compete on the Saturday, with the Seniors (born 1996 - 1969) climbing on the Sunday. With all the BSCC competitors competing on Sunday. We look forward to welcoming new and established competitors.

 

On the day entries will be accepted but all entries must be registered by 0830.

Download the BLCC Rules and Regulations

Download the BSCC Rules and Regulations

 

 

Sponsors

The BLCC and BSCC routes will be set with Entre-Prises climbing holds. Entre-Prises are the official supplier of bolt-on holds to the BMC. The ropes are provided by Mammut as the official supplier of ropes to BMC climbing competitions. The prizes will be provided by the BMC and DMM as the official supplier of climbing gear to BMC climbing competitions. The competition vests will be provided by Five Finger Thing.

 

 





Back to School Bouldering Competition 27.09.2014... : (04/09/2014)

 

Aged 7-17 years and love climbing? Enter the hugely popular Beacon Back to School Bouldering Competition on Saturday 27th September!

 

It doesn't matter whether you've been climbing for ages or have just started out. Everyone is welcome and taking part is a great opportunity to gain inspiration from other young climbers, hook up with new friends and enjoy climbing in a fun, sociable atmosphere.

 

 

Download the full sized competition poster here (prints up to A2 in high resolution)

 

 

The Competition...

 

Saturday 27th September 2014 from 9:30am.
Admission is £6.00 per competitor in advance or £8.00 on the day.

 

Registration starts at 9:30am and closes at 10:00am
Warm up from 10:00am - 10:30am
Competition starts at 10:30am

 

The event comprises of 6 boulder problems for each category.
There will be no isolation - boulder problems will be demonstrated if requested.
Climbers will have up to three attempts at each boulder problem within a time limit.
An attempt ends if a climber steps back down to the ground.
Scores for all climbs are totalled to give overall scores for the competition.

 

 

The Climbers...

 

Five categories, with separate girls and boys competitions, following the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) system based on year of birth. All entrants must have some climbing experience.

Youth A - those born in 1997 & 1998
Youth B - those born in 1999 & 2000
Youth C - those born in 2001 & 2002
Youth D - those born in 2003 & 2004
Youth E - those born in 2005 & 2006

 

 

Technical Considerations...

 

Judging will be similar to the BMC Youth Climbing Series events.
The climbing order for the first climb is random.
For subsequent climbs the order is rotated so the same climbers don't go first again.
All holds will be marked with tags or tape to aid identification.
The highest (or furthest) hold used, held or touched will determine points gained.

 

Please contact us on 01286 677 322 or info@beaconclimbing.com if you require any further information.





The Winter Bouldering Aggregate is back from 01.10.2014... : (06/09/2014)

The Beacon Climbing Centre Winter Bouldering Aggregate is back...

 

Open to all ages & abilities. Only £2.00 to enter.

250+ problems to attempt over 6 months. New problems every month.

 

Starting on the 1st October 2014 and running until the end of March 2015, the bouldering aggregate is a really fun way to boost your motivation for climbing over the winter months and is open to all ages and abilities.

 

 

Download the competition information sheet here.

Download the full sized competition poster here (prints up to A2 in high resolution)

 

 

How does the aggregate work?

 

Get started by purchasing your aggregate scorecard from reception (suggested donation £2.00 with all proceeds donated to the North Wales Bolt Fund), then try to climb as many of the aggregate bouldering problems as you can throughout the October to March duration.

 

Each problem included as part of the aggregate is given a number, displayed next to the starting holds. If you successfully climb a problem, place a tick on your score card next to the relevant number then go and try another problem! For every problem climbed you will be awarded 1 point, so even if you climb the hardest problems, you still need to climb the lower grade problems to stand a chance of winning. At the end of every session, please return your score card to reception when you leave, otherwise your points will not get recorded.

 

At the end of March, the climbers with the highest scores in each of the gender/age categories win an awesome prize courtesy of our sponsors DMM and V12 Outdoor... Simple!

 

 

The problems

 

Each aggregate problem is rated according to its level of difficulty (see the difficulty ratings section on this page) and is assigned a number for easy identification, displayed on a tag next to the starting handholds. The coloured holds are used for both hands and feet - smearing on the blank wall is fine, and arκtes and volumes are allowed.

 

Each problem must be climbed "clean" from the start tags and finished with both hands on the last hold in a controlled manner. If possible please ask another climber to tick the box on the score card when you complete a problem. We rely on your honesty!

 

 

Aggregate categories

 

Age

Male

Female

<10

Junior Boys

Junior Girls

11-14

Youth Boys

Youth Girls

15-17

Senior Boys

Senior Girls

18-44

Men

Women

45-59

Male Vet

Female Vet

60+

Male Super Vet

Female Super Vet

 

 

Sponsors

 

DMM Climbing and V12 Outdoor are providing generous support for the 2014 Winter Bouldering Aggregate with prizes awarded to the top male and top female climber in each category. Beacon will provide prizes for the 2nd and 3rd placed male and female climber in each category.

 





Climb & Dine - eat for £3 every Tuesday from 07.10.2014... : (14/10/2013)

Climb & Dine at Caffi Barcud in Beacon Climbing Centre offers a great value meal for only £3.00 every Tuesday evening, starting from 7th October 2014.

 

Why rush home to eat when you can spend a relaxing and sociable evening at Beacon instead? Enjoy your climbing then head up to the café to enjoy a delicious meal with your friends! We'll post the weekly Climb & Dine menu onto our facebook and twitter pages every week so you'll know in advance what meal is on offer.

 

 

Caffi Barcud is open until 10pm every Tuesday for Climb & Dine evenings, and until 9pm every other weekday evening. FREE WiFi is available and you can use the large screen TV/DVD player to watch a range of climbing DVDs. See you there soon!





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Weekends 10am - 8pm
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